Allo there, as of 6 days ago today (August 13th), I have been eating honey from our hives!
The entire process took ~7 hours to complete, and we didn't even do a full super worth from either hive. Since we were impatient to get some honey, we took the frames that were complete from the super and left the rest to be finished up and taken later in the year. But, I'm getting ahead of myself. Have to start at the beginning.
Hive 2 we did first, and no one was there to take pictures, so all of the pictures found with us outside are actually from Hive 1. For the first hive we did not use a bee escape as we weren't willing to wait for the bees to leave. More information on what a bee escape is can be found later. The bee escape made things a lot easier, so from now on I'm guessing we'll be utilizing the following method for all harvesting.
To begin the harvesting we suited up as usual and went out to
crack open the hive. The frames that were finished were on the first super, which had a mostly empty super above it. So, we had to
flip the supers. Once the empty super was on the bottom (on top of the hive body), we placed the inner cover on that super and the bee escape on top of that. Then the super with harvestable honey on top of it was placed on top of all that mess, and the outer cover on top of it. To get a visual of the change look at
this picture. Now to explain what a bee escape is:
The bee escape is a board which has a large hole on the top side which leads to a screened in area with a sort of mini-maze for the bees to get out from on the bottom side. There are only 3 small holes on the bottom side of the bee escape where the bees can leave or enter. The maze actually leads them to these holes if they're coming from the larger hole on the top side, and once they are out it becomes very difficult for them to find these smaller holes and maneuver their way back through the bee escape into the super we are trying to harvest from.
So, with the bee escape on the bottom of the harvestable super, and the outer cover on the top, the bees only had one exit. Now, I haven't read this anywhere, just my amateur speculation here but I think I know why the bees clear out so quickly from the harvestable super. Since they are now completely cut off from the hive except for the hole in the bee escape(which itself is sitting on the inner cover which only has an equal size hole in it), the amount of pheromone from the queen is very small. This lacking in pheromone alerts the bees to a change, and they will seek out the pheromone. This I believe explains why in an hour or so the harvestable super went from a thousand or two bees within the super to a hundred or two. But again, just my amateur speculation.
So, after the bee escape was in place for a while we were able to remove the frames that were harvestable, brush off the bees remaining on the comb and
take them to the house. Now, every book tells me this, and I should have listened,
never extract honey in your kitchen. I had honey on the cabinets, honey on the floor, and honey everywhere in between. Alas, we had no other place to extract the honey, but I should have at least TRIED to find somewhere else. Anywho, back to the extraction.
The frames in all of these pictures were from Hive 2 as the person with the camera showed up around the time we got to this part. First off, we wanted to cut out the
cut comb. Since the foundation used in these frames were pure beeswax, all we had to do to harvest the cut comb was to
cut it out of the frame with a knife and
cut it down to
manageable sizes. Now, we're not professional beekeepers so we were using what we could to package these pieces (so yes those are generic plastic containers and baby food jars you see in that last picture). Professional beekeepers can use frames with special things in them that only allow the bees to make the comb into the shape they want to sell as cut comb. We didn't really care that much, we just wanted some cut comb to eat.
The cut comb in the plastic containers were placed in the freezer for over 48 hours in order to kill any wax moth larvae or eggs. The cut comb in the jars were later filled with liquid honey that we harvested later. I should have froze those pieces as well, but I forgot and I don't think the wax moth larvae/eggs can survive a completely liquid environment. Yeah, I admit it, we made a mistake on assuming it would, but it is a mistake we will not repeat in the future.
Next up we had to start harvesting the honey from the frames with plastic foundation. Since plastic isn't edible and we have no extractor to remove the honey without harming the honeycomb, we had to try a less fancy method. This
method involved scraping the honeycomb and the honey into a 5 gallon pail with a piece of cloth on it to act as a filter. The cloth is 100 mesh, so all the wax (as well as the errant bee leg that might be in the wax) will remain on top of the cloth while the honey drips through. Mark installed a spout on the bottom of the pail which allowed for us to pour the honey out of the pail and jar it. We harvested
as much as we could and then left the beeswax in the pail to drain over the next few days. I only got another jelly jar full of honey after the beeswax had drained completely, so the method we used is crude but effective.
After we were done with the frames, we
hung the frames out so
the bees could pick them clean. This was my wife's idea, and I figure I owe her the credit of coming up with this incredibly easy way to get those frames clean.
So, that's it. It took a while, but
we have lots of honey to show for it. Well, lots considering we only got our bees a few months before. And the honey is very light, tasting mostly of clover honey, and is very thin compared to the grocery store variety. The flavour is spectacular though, despite its thin nature. Next we have to get that beeswax cleaned up so we can start other projects.